How to Fix a Leaky Faucet: Find the Drip and Repair the Right Part

How to Fix a Leaky Faucet: Find the Drip and Repair the Right Part

ByDiego Anderson

Quick answer: To fix a leaky faucet, first find where the water is escaping. Shut off the hot and cold supply valves, open the faucet to release pressure, and cover the drain. A drip from the spout usually means a worn washer, valve seat, cartridge, or internal seal. Water around the handle or spout base often points to an O-ring or other seal; water under the sink may come from a supply connection instead. Identify your faucet’s mechanism, install the exact replacement part, then restore the water slowly and check for leaks.

A faucet that drips after you’ve turned it off can be surprisingly distracting. It also wastes treated water. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), a faucet dripping once per second can waste more than 3,000 gallons in a year. That’s a reason to repair the leak—not a reason to start taking the fixture apart before you know what is wrong.

Most routine kitchen and bathroom faucet repairs are manageable with basic hand tools. The key is to distinguish a bad internal valve from a loose connection or an external seal. This guide walks through that diagnosis, the four common faucet types, and what to do when a repair doesn’t work.

Before You Start: Locate the Leak

Dry the faucet and the area beneath the sink with a towel. Then observe where water first appears, rather than where it finally collects.

Where water appears Likely problem First thing to inspect
Drips from the spout after the handle is off Valve is not sealing Washer and seat, cartridge, or ball-faucet seats and springs
Seeps from around the handle while water is running Stem or cartridge seal, packing, or handle assembly O-ring, packing, cartridge, or manufacturer-specified assembly
Leaks around the swiveling spout base Worn spout O-rings Spout-base seal kit
Drips from a connection below the sink Supply line, shutoff valve, hose, or fitting Exact wet connection and condition of its seal
Water pools under the sink without an obvious drip Supply or drain leak, possibly only while running water Dry and test supply lines, faucet hoses, and drain separately

One useful test for two-handle faucets: When a spout drips, carefully feel the water to see whether it is hot or cold. That can help narrow down which side needs attention. Let any potentially hot water cool before touching it. On a single-handle faucet, both temperatures generally pass through one mixing cartridge or valve assembly.

A few drops immediately after you turn off the faucet may simply be water draining from the spout or aerator. A drip that continues indefinitely is more likely to indicate a failed seal.

Stop and get help if: Water sprays from a pipe, a supply connection is cracked, the shutoff valve leaks or will not close, or you cannot reliably stop water flowing to the fixture. Do not dismantle a pressurized faucet.

Identify Your Faucet Type

The number of handles provides a clue, but it doesn’t conclusively identify the valve inside. A two-handle faucet, for example, may use traditional compression stems or modern cartridges.

Faucet type How to recognize it Typical cause of a spout drip Common repair
Compression Usually two handles that turn multiple times and tighten as they close Worn rubber seat washer or damaged valve seat Replace washer; inspect seat
Cartridge One or two handles with a smooth, controlled movement Worn cartridge or internal sealing surfaces Replace model-matched cartridge
Ball Usually a single handle over a rounded cap; ball mechanism inside Worn rubber seats and springs or ball/cam components Install the correct repair kit
Ceramic-disc Often a lever or quarter-turn handle with a ceramic-disc cartridge Damaged seals, debris, or failed disc cartridge Clean/replace model-specific seals or cartridge

If you cannot identify the mechanism from the outside, look up the faucet model before buying parts. A logo near the base or on the handle can help; a photo of the faucet and cartridge can help a manufacturer or plumbing-supply counter identify it. Common U.S. manufacturers include Moen, Delta, Kohler, American Standard, and Pfister, but parts are not interchangeable just because the faucets look similar.

Tools and Replacement Parts

You may not need every item on this list. Gather the tools that match your faucet and buy replacement components after identifying the model when possible.

  • Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
  • SAE or metric hex keys for concealed handle screws
  • Adjustable wrench or suitable pliers
  • Soft cloth, towel, and small container for screws
  • Strap wrench or padded wrench jaws to protect the finish, if needed
  • Needle-nose pliers or a cartridge-pulling tool if specified for your model
  • Correct washer, O-ring, cartridge, seats-and-springs kit, or seal kit
  • Faucet-safe silicone plumber’s grease, if the manufacturer instructs you to lubricate seals
  • Flashlight or phone camera to photograph the order of parts

Do not assume you need plumber’s tape. PTFE thread tape is suitable only for connections designed to seal at the threads; it will not repair a defective cartridge, compression washer, or most gasketed supply-line connections. Likewise, don’t put petroleum jelly on seals unless the faucet manufacturer specifically allows it—use only a compatible lubricant.

How to Fix a Leaky Faucet: The Basic Steps

These preparation steps apply to most conventional sink faucets. The actual part replacement depends on the mechanism described below.

1. Shut off the water and release pressure

Find the hot and cold shutoff valves under the sink. Turn standard round-handled valves clockwise until closed, without forcing them. Quarter-turn valves typically close when the handle is perpendicular to the pipe. Open the faucet to confirm that flow stops and to relieve pressure.

If a valve is stuck or still lets water through, use the home’s main water shutoff only if you know it works. If you cannot isolate the water safely, call a plumber.

2. Protect the sink and faucet finish

Cover the drain with its stopper or a towel so screws and clips cannot fall in. Place another towel over the sink surface. Protect finished metal with a soft cloth or padded tool; bare pliers can mar chrome, brushed nickel, and other coatings.

3. Remove the handle carefully

Look for a small screw beneath a decorative cap, behind the lever, or under the handle. Remove it with the correct screwdriver or hex key. Lift the handle gently. If mineral buildup makes it stick, consult the manufacturer’s disassembly instructions rather than twisting or prying hard against the faucet body.

Take a picture before removing clips, nuts, or springs. Lay the components on a towel in removal order. This is especially helpful when a replacement cartridge can be installed in more than one orientation.

4. Replace the part for your faucet type

Follow the matching section below. Do not disassemble unrelated components or automatically replace every seal in the faucet.

5. Reassemble and test

Reinstall the parts in their original orientation, following the manufacturer’s tightening instructions. Leave the handle in the off position and slowly reopen the shutoff valves. Check beneath the sink and around the faucet for leaks. Turn on hot and cold water, operate the handle through its full range, and check again after turning it off.

If the manufacturer calls for flushing the faucet after cartridge replacement, follow that procedure; debris stirred up during the repair can affect a new seal or clog the aerator.

Repair a Compression Faucet: Replace the Washer and Check the Seat

Older two-handle compression faucets use a threaded stem that presses a rubber washer against a valve seat to stop the water. Repeated tightening eventually wears the washer. Cracks or roughness in the seat can also keep a new washer from sealing.

  1. Remove the handle and stem assembly. After shutting off the water, remove the handle screw and handle. Loosen the appropriate bonnet or packing nut and remove the stem according to the faucet design.
  2. Inspect the washer. At the bottom of the stem, find the rubber washer held by a small screw. Look for flattening, splitting, hardening, or an uneven edge.
  3. Fit an exact replacement. Remove the screw and old washer, install a washer of the same size and profile, and secure it without distorting the rubber.
  4. Examine the valve seat. Look inside the faucet body where the washer presses down. If the seat is visibly corroded or pitted, a washer alone may not stop the drip. Some designs have removable seats; others need specialized refinishing or faucet replacement.
  5. Inspect stem seals. If water had leaked around the handle, check the packing or O-ring and replace it with the correct part.
  6. Reassemble and test. Reinstall the stem and handle. Close the handle normally—do not crank it down harder to compensate for a leak.

Common mistake: Replacing a visibly damaged washer without checking the surface it seals against. A rough valve seat can quickly damage the new washer.

Repair a Cartridge Faucet: Replace the Matching Cartridge

A cartridge faucet regulates water using a removable valve cartridge. These are common in both single-handle kitchen faucets and one- or two-handle bathroom fixtures. A continuous spout drip can mean that the cartridge’s internal sealing surfaces have worn or become damaged.

Moen’s troubleshooting guidance, for example, directs homeowners with certain spout leaks to identify the exact model and replace the correct cartridge. That model-matching step matters more than finding a cartridge that merely looks close.

  1. Identify the model and cartridge. Check the manufacturer’s parts diagram or support page. If the model is unknown, take photographs of the faucet and the exposed cartridge before ordering.
  2. Remove the handle and retainer. Depending on the design, the cartridge may be held by a retaining clip, bonnet nut, or other assembly. Keep track of the part’s position.
  3. Extract the cartridge as instructed. Some pull out directly; others must be rotated or removed with a dedicated puller. Do not pry against fragile valve-body surfaces.
  4. Inspect the valve opening. Remove accessible debris with a soft cloth, following the manufacturer’s directions. Do not scratch the valve body or leave pieces of old rubber behind.
  5. Install the correct replacement. Align tabs, ports, and markings exactly as shown in the manufacturer instructions. Use lubricant only if specified.
  6. Secure the cartridge and test. Refit the clip or retaining nut, assemble the handle, and check shutoff as well as hot/cold operation.

If hot and cold controls behave backward after the repair, stop and check the cartridge orientation and model-specific adjustment procedure. Don’t force the handle to operate against its stops.

What if the handle only stops dripping in one precise position? That symptom can point to worn or damaged internal valve components. The exact cause can’t be confirmed from the handle position alone, so identify and inspect the cartridge or mechanism before buying an O-ring at random.

Repair a Ball Faucet: Replace Seats, Springs, and Other Worn Parts

Traditional single-handle ball faucets use a slotted ball above rubber seats and small springs. Worn seats can allow water to pass even when the handle is fully closed. Depending on the model, the ball, cam, packing, and spout O-rings may also need attention.

  1. Close both water supplies and remove the handle.
  2. Remove the cap and any cam or packing components in the order specified for your faucet.
  3. Lift out the ball and note how its alignment pin and slots fit into the body.
  4. Remove the rubber seats and their springs. Check for cracks, flattening, or debris.
  5. Install the model-specific seats and springs, oriented as shown in the parts diagram.
  6. Inspect the ball and cam for wear and replace them if the manufacturer directs or damage is evident.
  7. Reassemble, restore water slowly, and test for drips and leaks around the handle.

Delta’s maintenance directions for one of its ball-faucet designs distinguish between a leak at the spout outlet, a leak under the handle, and a leak at the spout base; each may require different repair parts. That is why a universal-looking repair kit should never be the only guide to disassembly.

Repair a Ceramic-Disc Faucet: Check Seals and Cartridge Condition

Ceramic-disc valves use polished ceramic surfaces to control water. Although the discs are durable, debris, damaged rubber seals, or a failed cartridge can still cause leaks. Many modern ceramic-disc units are serviced by replacing the complete cartridge rather than opening the disc assembly.

  1. Shut off the supplies and remove the handle and decorative cover.
  2. Remove the retaining hardware according to the faucet manual.
  3. Lift out the ceramic-disc cartridge and inspect accessible external seals for cuts or debris.
  4. Clean debris only as recommended by the manufacturer. Do not separate or scratch the polished ceramic discs unless the repair instructions explicitly require it.
  5. Replace serviceable seals or the complete cartridge with the exact matching part.
  6. Reassemble and reopen the water gradually, checking for both leaks and correct handle operation.

A leaking ceramic-disc faucet is not repaired by installing an ordinary compression washer. Its parts and sealing method are different.

What If the Faucet Leaks Around the Handle, Base, or Under the Sink?

A spout drip and an external leak are different problems. Changing the main valve cartridge might solve some handle leaks, but it won’t necessarily fix an O-ring beneath a swiveling spout or a leaking supply hose.

Water around the handle

Dry the area, turn on the water briefly, and watch for moisture emerging from beneath the handle. After shutting off the supplies, inspect the stem O-ring, packing, cartridge seal, or handle mechanism identified in your model’s repair guide. If the leak started after a repair, check that the cartridge and retainer were installed correctly; don’t compensate by overtightening.

Water from the spout base

If water appears where a swiveling spout joins the faucet body—particularly while the faucet runs—the spout O-rings may be worn. Look for a matching spout seal kit and model-specific removal instructions. On some models, replacing the entire spout assembly is the approved repair.

Water beneath the sink

Place a dry paper towel around each connection and run the faucet while watching carefully. Check the shutoff valves, supply-line fittings, pull-down sprayer hose (if present), and any connections to the faucet body. Also test the drain while water flows: a drain leak can look like a faucet leak after water reaches the cabinet floor.

Avoid tightening fittings blindly. Some supply lines seal with a built-in rubber gasket, and overtightening can damage the fitting. Turn off the water before adjusting or replacing a leaking hose or connector. Replace cracked, corroded, or damaged components rather than trying to seal them from the outside.

Why Is the Faucet Still Dripping After a Repair?

If the faucet continues to leak, use the symptom to narrow down the remaining cause instead of repeating the same repair.

What you notice What to check next
New compression washer, same spout drip Valve seat roughness, incorrect washer size, damaged stem
New cartridge, same spout drip Wrong cartridge, incorrect orientation, debris, worn valve body
Ball faucet still drips Seat/spring placement; worn ball, cam, or packing
Leak started immediately after reassembly Misplaced O-ring, damaged gasket, loose/incorrect retaining part
Water seeps at the spout base only while running Swivel-spout O-rings or spout assembly
Water appears under the sink Supply-line connection, hose, valve, or drain—not necessarily the cartridge
Reduced flow after repair Debris in aerator or a blocked passage; follow flushing directions

An aerator, the screen-like fitting at the spout tip, can collect sediment and affect flow or cause water to trickle out briefly after shutoff. Cleaning it is worthwhile if flow is weak or spray is uneven. But a persistent drip caused by a valve that does not close generally requires repairing the valve—not just cleaning the aerator.

If a matching new cartridge or washer does not work and the faucet body is damaged, a professional inspection may be more economical than repeatedly replacing parts.

Common Faucet Repair Mistakes to Avoid

  • Skipping the shutoff test. Closing a valve is not enough; open the faucet and confirm the flow has stopped before removing components.
  • Buying by appearance alone. Similar-looking cartridges can differ in length, seals, port placement, or retaining features.
  • Losing orientation. Photograph the cartridge, clips, ball, and springs before removal.
  • Forcing old hardware. Corroded handles and stuck cartridges can break. Use the prescribed removal method or stop.
  • Using the wrong grease or sealant. Follow the manufacturer, especially for drinking-water-contact parts and gasketed connections.
  • Overtightening nuts and handles. More force can damage threads, crush seals, and strip components.
  • Ignoring the actual leak location. Water under the sink can come from a hose or drain even if the faucet also looks worn.
  • Failing to retest. Check all handle positions and both water temperatures, then inspect the cabinet again after a period of use.

Should You Repair or Replace the Entire Faucet?

A repair is usually worth trying when the faucet body is sound, replacement parts are available, and the leak can be traced to a serviceable washer, seal, or cartridge. Some manufacturers may supply qualifying parts under a product warranty; eligibility depends on the exact warranty terms and proof-of-purchase requirements.

Consider replacing the fixture if the body is cracked, internal sealing surfaces are severely corroded, the correct parts are discontinued, or multiple repairs have not solved the problem. A plumber is also the sensible choice when the shutoff valves fail, plumbing connections are deteriorating, or access is difficult.

For a replacement bathroom sink faucet, look for a WaterSense-labeled model. EPA says WaterSense-labeled faucets are independently certified to use less water while meeting performance requirements. Kitchen faucet choices have different flow considerations, so check the model’s intended application rather than assuming every WaterSense rule applies to the kitchen.

How Much Water Does a Dripping Faucet Waste?

The amount depends on the size and frequency of the drops. The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) explains that individual drops vary, and its drip calculator uses an approximate drop volume of 0.25 milliliter. That makes any gallons-per-year estimate approximate rather than universal.

The EPA reports that one drip per second can waste more than 3,000 gallons annually. A smaller drip might seem harmless, but an ongoing leak should still be repaired because it can worsen and may indicate a part is deteriorating. Fixing hot-water leaks also avoids wasting energy on water that goes straight down the drain.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you fix a dripping faucet without replacing the cartridge?

Sometimes. A compression faucet may only need a washer or valve-seat repair, and certain ball faucets can be fixed with new seats and springs. A cartridge faucet with worn internal seals commonly needs a matching replacement cartridge. Check the manufacturer’s repair instructions before deciding.

Why does my faucet drip only after I turn it off?

A few drops can be residual water draining from the spout or aerator. If the dripping continues, the internal shutoff mechanism may not be sealing completely. Look first at the washer, cartridge, or other valve components used in your model.

Can a bad O-ring make a faucet drip from the spout?

It depends on where the O-ring is located. An external spout or stem O-ring often causes water to escape around a joint or handle. Internal cartridge seals can contribute to a spout drip. Diagnose the location of the leak and use the model’s parts diagram rather than replacing every visible O-ring.

Do I need to turn off the water to change a faucet washer?

Yes. Close the appropriate supply valves and confirm that no water flows from the faucet before removing the stem or cartridge. If you cannot shut off the supply securely, do not start disassembly.

Does plumber’s tape stop a dripping faucet?

Not when the leak is caused by a worn internal washer or cartridge. Thread tape is for certain threaded plumbing connections and should only be used where the fitting’s instructions call for it. It is not a substitute for the correct valve repair part.

Why does my kitchen faucet stop dripping only when the handle is in a certain position?

The handle position may temporarily help a worn internal seal make contact. A damaged cartridge or another worn valve component is a possibility, but the symptom alone doesn’t identify the part. Find the model and inspect the valve assembly before replacing it.

When should I call a plumber for a faucet leak?

Call when the water cannot be isolated, a shutoff valve or pipe is leaking, parts are seized, the faucet body is damaged, or a correctly performed model-specific repair hasn’t stopped the leak. Active water damage beneath the sink deserves prompt attention.

The Bottom Line

A reliable faucet repair starts with two questions: Where is the water coming from, and what type of valve is inside? Once you know those answers, the fix is often straightforward: replace a compression washer, install a matching cartridge, renew ball-faucet seats and springs, or service a ceramic-disc assembly. Work with the water off, keep parts in order, and test thoroughly when you’re finished.

If the leak is outside the faucet body—or the water supply will not shut off—treat it as a separate plumbing problem rather than forcing a simple washer repair.

Sources and Technical References

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